The November issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK) casts new light on Rome, one of Europe’s most alluring cities. History is etched deep into the marble bones of the Eternal City, but this is still a living, breathing capital, with its feet in the present and its eyes on the future. Set off into its distinctive neighbourhoods and see once-forgotten districts now revitalised, age-old recipes carefully maintained and ancient landmarks restored for the modern age.

Elsewhere, we meet polar bears and austere Arctic landscapes in Alaska; take a drive through Burgundy, France’s verdant heart; find out how Buenos Aires is reinventing itself; and discover surf spots, markets and Portuguese culture in Jersey.